The baroque cuisine of the restaurant Perbellini of Rizza Island

pubblicato il 3 luglio 2010 di Redazione Inglese

In his restaurant Perbellini in Isola Rizza (VR), Giancarlo Perbellini is implementing a new baroque cuisine. Trully creative.

Enjoying the culinary creations of Giancarlo Perbellini and living a lunch or a dinner at his restaurant “Perbellini” Isola Rizza (VR), you perceive in the air the mannered atmosphere, genteel, almost from the seventeenth century. The Baroque era seems to creep among the provisions, among the presentations of succulent dishes properly decorated, among the waiters. Caution, absolutely no means to a climate stilted and redundant! Instead it is almost a time travel, forwarding a French or Spanish palace, where the gold on the walls is replaced by the preciousness of the anchovy caramelized with fresh mint. Tradition and innovation, rediscovery of the past and play with the combinations. Giancarlo Perbellini is working with the ingredient to enhance them like with the braised veal cheek and foie gras, mashed potatoes and fried leeks, he invents jewelry of haute cuisine – the wafers of raw sea bass, and feeling of licorice – listen the insights of his brigade to create amazing dishes like the smoked caviar and iced zabaglione. The Aristotelian syllogism of the chef is simple: “It starts from a classical cuisine, is decorated with intelligent and unobtrusive contemporary, to deliver a Baroque modernity”. The Baroque is a particular period in European cultural history: it is the emotional and creative response to the Renaissance. It is sort of reaction to the rigid control of form and content. The Verona’s chef of the restaurant Perbellini acts in the same way with a baroque cuisine, counters to the inflexible severity of classic cuisine, to give territorial nuances of feeling and personality. The fabulous foie gras Gnocchi with bruscandoli and beand soup, lobster and truffles is the epitome of this concept: the classical rigor and luxurious foie gras, truffles and lobster mix with the originality of the bruscandoli, a touch of dialect poetry.The word “Baroque” might also derive from an ancient Portuguese word, barroco, used to define a pearl, a pearl is not cultivated, non-symmetrical. Its cuisine is this: among the restaurants in the province of Verona, is a pearl of the Italian culinary scene, precious and elegant by nature, but impossible to play and encode. Giancarlo Perbellini, twenty years of refinement and grace of modern baroque.

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